Many of the belts you see on the market are built with a buckle permanently affixed to the leather strap using a rivet or screw. While this provides a strong and reliable belt, it does limit your ability to swap out the buckle for another one or even to remove the entire strap if you ever want to wear something different.
The reason we use Chicago Screws, sometimes referred to as Chicago Fasteners, Sex Bolts, Screw Posts or Binding Posts is that they provide the strength of a rivet while allowing you to unscrew and change out your belt buckle easily. A basic Chicago screw has two threaded pieces, a flat head on both ends and sits flush against the leather much like a saddle stitch. The opposite end of the screw is then inserted into the opposite piece creating a very strong and secure connection between the buckle and leather strap.
We use them primarily on our gun belts where you need to be able to swap out the holster for a new one or even to switch between different styles of holsters. However, they are a great option for all of our leather belts as well as being used in other types of leather craft projects.
You can get the screws from any hardware store, but for best results we recommend getting them pre-colored so that you don't have to worry about matching the right color. The black screw has a nickel plated finish so it is not prone to rust or corrosion.
To start, lay the leather strap out and mark a spot 6" away from the end. Use a ruler or pencil and make the mark a little less than 1" wide. This will be where the hole is marked for your belt buckle.
Next, take your tool of choice (we prefer a rounded strap end punch) and punch the hole through the leather. The hole will need to be a little bigger than the post so that you can place the screw into it. Once the screw is in place, put the post on a solid surface and hit it with a hammer until it is set. If you are having trouble getting it to set, try placing a rubber glove on your hand and press down on the backside of the screw while turning it with a screw driver. This almost always breaks the screw loose enough to allow it to be removed. You can also add a drop of threadlock glue on the threads if you are worried about them working loose.